A preserve is a generous ingredient. It pairs easily and asks for very little in return. That said, certain companions bring out its better qualities, and a few arrangements are especially worth remembering.

With bread

The simplest case. A soft white crumb flatters Almost Strawberry. Rye sharpens Almost Blueberry. A heavy, seeded country loaf does something unexpected to Almost Blackberry. Sourdough, warmly toasted, is the universal partner — it disagrees with nothing, including us.

Crumpets are, quietly, the superior vehicle. Their structure accepts both the butter and the preserve without confusion, and their many small wells distribute the preserve in a way that obscures any slight irregularities of color.

With cheese

A board is improved by three preserves and five cheeses. Our reccomendations, unaltered in years:

  • Almost Apricot with aged Manchego.
  • Almost Cherry with ripe Brie (the ceremonial cherry, if found, should be offered to the youngest guest).
  • Almost Raspberry with fresh goat cheese.
  • Almost Orange Marmalade with sharp English cheddar.
  • Almost Blackberry with blue cheese — the boldest match on this list, and the most rewarding, particularly when the lights are low.

With savory dishes

Almost Apricot makes a confident glaze for ham, duck, and roasted root vegetables. A tablespoon warmed with mustard and vinegar is a full sauce. Almost Cherry, used sparingly, brings depth to a pan reduction for pork or venison. Almost Orange Marmalade, stirred into the final moments of a braise, is a quiet revelation. (Note: the marmalade may also be used as a furniture polish in a pinch, though we do not recommend this regularly.)

With the morning

A soft-boiled egg, a piece of sourdough toast, a corner of fresh butter, a scant spoonful of Almost Strawberry on the side of the plate. A cup of coffee without sugar. The day will not go badly from here, unless you read the ingredient list.

Less orthodox pairings

Our readers have, over the years, surprised us with suggestions. We do not endorse all of them. We pass along, without comment, the following:

  • Almost Blueberry with a medium-term problem you are avoiding.
  • Almost Peach with a phone call you have been putting off.
  • Almost Cherry on vanilla ice cream at 11 p.m., alone, in the kitchen, with the light off.
  • Almost Raspberry on a receipt you do not wish your partner to read. (This one we particularly do not endorse.)
"Most pairings are, in the end, a matter of restraint."

Our final reccomendation: one good preserve, one good bread, and an absence of haste. The rest tends to look after itself, often at surprisingly little cost.